New ships wheel

Our old wheel took up a lot of room and it was not the prettiest. I decided to make a new wheel out of plywood.
First I cut out 3 rough circles from 5mm plywood. Then I bolted each one to a jig I made for my router.

As I used the same bolt hole to mount each piece of ply there were all identical so they fit together perfectly. I then glued the 3 pieces together and clamped them in the vice overnight.


I marked out where I wanted to cut out material to make the spokes of the wheel.


I used a new hole in my “router table” to cut the 6 radius around the sides of the wheel. I used a drill to make the 6 holes close to the centre of the wheel. Then I used a jig-saw to join the radius to the hole leaving me with 6 triangles removed and 6 spokes for the wheel.


I then used a corner radius bit in the router to round all the edges inside and outside. A hole was drilled in the middle of the wheel to attach the centre piece from the old wheel. I also put a step in the middle that the compass cover would fit into.

It was then just a matter of sanding and varnishing.

Here are some photos of the wheel in the boat and how the mechanism works. since our boat has a tiller the wheel is not always connected, we use this chain to connect and disconnect the pulley system from the wheel.

 

Vent for our fridge

We didn’t have a fridge before so finding a place to put one was kind of hard. Eventually we decided to put it in one of the lockers in the bow cabin as it makes a bit of noise and it is an easy locker to get at. The only problem is that the fridge requires air to be circulated around it and when the locker is closed there is no room to circulate air. 

So one of the jobs today is to add vents to the side of this locker. We are adding two so that the warm air will create a draft and help bring in colder air.

I started by placing the vent in the location I wanted it and marking one of the holes.

Then after drilling the first hole we bolted the grill in place so that the rest of the holes would be drilled in the right places.

Once all fo the holes were drilled we marked out a rectangle of material we wanted to remove.

We drilled 4 holes big enough to insert the jigsaw. The hole also give the vent hole nice rounded corners.

As the grill was going over the vent hole we weren’t too woried about appearance’s. Here is a pic of the vent with the protective plastic removed and all the bolts inserted. On reflection the stainless steal bolts may have been an overkill.

Thanks for reading. Any questions you can email us at sailing@asailingadventure.com or message us on instagram @asailingadventure

Raspberry Pi Chart Ploter

Setting up Open CPN on a Raspberry Pi.

I started out thinking that it was going to be a matter of ordering all the parts plugging them together and installing some software. even though that is basically what I did, it ended up taking more time and research than I had initially expected.

I am working on adding an AIS receiver and GPS to this setup but as i don’t have them working yet I won’t cover them here.

Today I am going to cover;

  • The Hard Wear setup
  • Installing NOOBS
  • Installing Open CPN

Hardware

I got all my parts on amazon.co.uk you can find them on other places.  You will need:

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Raspberry Pi I got the Pi 3 as it was the newest when I placed the order. Pi 3 has a built in wifi and 4 USB ports.

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A Micro SD Card nothing special here, just make sure you get a real name brand one.

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Touch Screen  You don’t need a touch screen I just got this as I wanted to try it out. The raspberry pi is a little slow and the touch interface makes it a little frustrating to use at times. So I generally use the mouse most of the time.

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Key Board and Mouse I got this keyboard Mouse combination as it was small wireless and had a track pad. It’s a little flimsy but is fine for working on the Raspberry pi.

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DC/DC Converter I am powering the Raspberry Pi and Screen from a DC/DC converter tuned to 5 volts. To use this instead of a micro USB cable you will need to do some soldering. If you are going to power your setup like this you need to check the converter is set to 5v first, otherwise you might burn your Pi!!
Burnt Pi

I used my multi meter to check the voltage.

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I then connected the Converter to the GPIO pin of the Raspberry pi to power it up.
Burnt Pi

I 3D printed the case to hold everything in one box and tidy the wires. I have up loaded all the files to MyMiniFactory page www.myminifactory.com/users/IrialK

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I have also designed my own wall mounts and quick release plate for mounting everything.

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Chart_plotter stl ZIP File

Software

Once I had power to my setup then I installed NOOBS on the Micro SD Card. There is no point in repeating information. Here is a link to the Raspberry Pi website:

https://www.raspberrypi.org/learning/software-guide/quickstart/

I had a problem when setting up my screen. The raspberry wasn’t automatically recognizing the screen. After lots of looking I found a simple solution:

  1. I inserted the Micro SD Card into my main computer and found the config.txt file.
  2. I opened the file in a text editor.
  3. I added the following lines to the bottom of the file. hdmi_force_hotplug=1
    hdmi_group=2
    hdmi_mode=2
    hdmi_mode=87
    hdmi_cvt=1024 600 60 3 0 0 0
  4. I saved the file and reinserted the SD Card into the Pi.

It worked fine after this.

Now that the Pi is booted up and setup its time to install Open CPN. Again here I’m not going to go into detail. There is a page on the Open CPN website that covers this and a link to a blog post that does a much better job of explaining the process than I could. The blog post also explains adding a GPS which I have not done yet.

http://opencpn.org/ocpn/Install_raspberry-pi

http://kingtidesailing.blogspot.ie/2015/09/how-to-install-opencpn-on-raspberry-pi.html

There are a few other articles and videos that I came across and it either helped me or are related to running Open CPN

 

 

A Sinking Feeling – VLOG 006

In this video Irial patches our new rubber dinghy and we finish work in the heads, painting the walls, fitting the fresh water pump and putting in the surround for the sink.
The Time Lapse at the end of the video is taken from the top of the highest mountain in Ireland, where we went last weekend.

Enjoy the video!

LINKS
WEBSITE – https://asailingadventure.com/
INSTAGRAM – https://www.instagram.com/asailingadventure/

GEAR:
CANON 600D – http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos600d
CANON LENSE 18-135mm – http://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/lenses/canon_18-135_3p5-5p6_is
GOPRO Hero 4 Black
MAGIC ARM – https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018QEIPSA?psc=1

VLOG 004 – Plumbing and Hatches – ASailingAdventure

In this episode we make some new hatches for the wheel house, discover a cheap solution for the vents on our dorade boxes and Irial talks about the plumbing in the bathroom.

 

 

Blog Post on Seacocks:

The Galley Part 1

Thanks for watching.

Enjoy the video!

LINKS
INSTAGRAM – https://www.instagram.com/asailingadventure/

GEAR:
CANON 600D – http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos600d
CANON LENSE 18-135mm – http://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/lenses/canon_18-135_3p5-5p6_is
GOPRO Hero 4 Black
MAGIC ARM – https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018QEIPSA?psc=1

VLOG 003 – A Sailing Adventure – Drilling holes in the hull

In this episode we discover some problems in the bilge and Irial looks for possible solutions.

Thanks for watching.

Enjoy the video!

LINKS
WEBSITE – https://asailingadventure.com/
INSTAGRAM – https://www.instagram.com/asailingadventure/

GEAR:
CANON 600D – http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos600d
CANON LENSE 18-135mm – http://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/lenses/canon_18-135_3p5-5p6_is
GOPRO Hero 4 Black
MAGIC ARM – https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018QEIPSA?psc=1

MUSIC – Nice and Easy – http://www.audionautix.com

Rusty Hatch

The hatch going down to the engine room had rusted a lot around the lip where water had been allowed to collect. There was also an overhang where the steel could not be proper sandblasted when it was built first.

Here is a diagram of where the rust was at its worst and a photo of the hatch before I started work on it:

rusty haatch

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First I took the hatch off and knocked out as much rust as I could with the hammer drill.

I then took the angle grinder and cut way the lip all around the edge. After doing this I found that there was only one side where the wall of the lip had rusted through completely. This was a big relief as I was dreading having to replace the whole valley all the way around the hatch.

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I cut out the very weak metal and cleaned down the rest of it:

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I then welded in a new piece of off steel and grinded everything flush.

rusty haatch2

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When this was done I went around with a wire brush to clean down the entire valley and painted it with Epoxy 2 Pack.

Vlog 001 – A Sailing Adventure


Our first Vlog!!

We’ve put together a short video documenting our current progress on the boat. We hope this will be the first of many videos.

In this episode we are removing some of the rust from the hull and covering the steel with We also so some interior work – lots and lots of painting!

Enjoy the video!

Guess how many times Irial can say the word ‘hard’ in the space of 60 seconds?!

GEAR:
CANON 600D – http://www.dpreview.com
CANON LENSE 18-135mm – http://www.dpreview.com/
MAGIC ARM – https://www.amazon.co.uk/

LINKS
INSTAGRAM – https://www.instagram.com/asailingadventure/   Instagram

MUSIC: Song “Blazing Day” appearing on “Cullahnary School” by Cullah
Available at: http://www.cullah.com
Under CC BY SA license http://creativecommons.org/lic

 

Off Grid

Our new solar panels and wind turbine have finally arrived! We decided to get a combination of solar and wind power generation so that we would always have a good supply of electricity on the boat. We did our research and we sourced that we could ordered both the solar panels and the wind turbine as a package deal. We avoided buying them from a chandlery as they were far too expensive. We found the on amazon and we received the delivery within a week.

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The wind turbine doesn’t have a brand but it looks good and sturdy even if the finish isn’t as polished as a named brand. The wind turbine has a peak output of 400 watts. We will need to put a pole up on the stern of the boat to mount it. We will then need to run cables from the wind turbine down to the engine room where we will have all the power management.

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The solar panels were bigger than we expected. We will need to plan where we will mount the panels on the boat. Each panel has a peak output of 180 watts.

The kit also included a charge controller that manages the solar panels and wind turbine.

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Let there be light

The lights we had on the boat were old fluorescent tubes that ran on 12v. They were properly quite efficient from their time bbut that was 2 years ago and lighting technology has come a long way since then.

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I went online and ordered some 12v LED lights that looked like they  would work for our situation, like everything you buy online I was not sure of the quality of the product I was buying so I only ordered two. On arrival I was pleasantly surprised to find the lights were much brighter than I was expecting and more that adequate for our needs. Here is a link to them

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We ordered the larger version with 2 LED strips in them. We are going to order more of this size to fit in the salon, galley, chart table and work shop but I think they might be too bright for the cabins. We’ll have to find some nice small ones, maybe with a pivoting head.

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We also got some 12v to USB sockets for charging electronics. I’m going to go into the power system in more detail in another post but for now here is the USB sockets. I have them mounted in a case I 3D printed.